On The Road...

with Lisa Lindblad

Gruta de Santo Antonio

I’m very fortunate..I have clients, who have become friends, who, when traveling around the world, will text me the name of a restaurant or shop that they have stumbled across, or send me the phone number of a great guide.  This week Allan sent me not only an email raving about Gruta de Santo Antonio but also a cache of photographs showing his dinner, the smiling face of the chef, and interiors of Rio’s gem of a restaurant.

Serving Portuguese deliciousness every day of the year, Allan, who knows his food and wine, tells me Gruta de Santo Antonio is right up there with the best.  In other words, a MUST.  So, when staying at Santa Teresa Hotel, this is your first meal out.

http://www.grutadesantoantonio.com.br/v2/

Uncorked! Wine Co.

Located at 98 Christopher Street, Uncorked! Wine Co is pocket-sized wine shop with two interesting angles:  The first is that it has partnered with some of the more delicious and interesting restaurants in the area, like Blue Ribbon and l’Artusi, to offer the wines that these wine innovative restaurants are currently serving; the second angle is the Sip principle..over forty bottles are set up in an enclosed pour rack from which Paul Common, the passionate and knowledgeable owner, will pour you  a sip to try.  Brilliant!

For those who like small producers and are curious to try an unusual assortment of wines, this is a great place to get to know.

http://uncorkedwineco.com/

Massaging Octopus

 Recently premiered in NYC, Jiro Dreams of Sushi is a film that inspects the work of world-famous chef Sukiyabashi Jiro through the lens of filmmaker David Gelb. The proprietor of a ten-seat restaurant in a Tokyo subway is known for year-long waiting lists and a tendency to massage octopuses for 40-50 minutes before serving.

 

Ranch at Rock Creek

At home in Big Sky country…

 One of the transporting qualities of The Ranch at Rock Creek is the vast collection of old photographs and artifacts from the frontier days.  Everywhere you turn, you will find an image which provides a window into another time and place: America’s Old Wild West.  If you have ever dreamed of what life on a ranch would be like – albeit with today’s modern day comforts and some rustic luxury – then head to The Ranch at Rock Creek.  The warm and hospitable staff will make you feel at home, and you will be well-nourished with delicious, regional, gourmet food.  Stay in one of the beautifully appointed rooms in the main lodge, or choose from a wide array of cabins and cottages, tented canvas cabins, or fully equipped log homes.  At your disposal are guides as well as gear for fly-fishing, horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, swimming, and archery.  When snow blankets the area, activities shift to snowmobiling, snowshoeing, ice-skating, carriage rides, sledding, and cross-country skiing.  Any time of year you can head over to the Ranch’s own Silver Dollar Saloon, where you can bowl, play pool, ping pong or watch a movie in the comfy home movie theater.   And when it is time to really relax you can unwind at the spa, catch-up on some reading (with an exceptionally wide array and quantity of books) or simply enjoy the beauty of nature in this pristine Montana locale.

…Out where the world is in the making,
Where fewer hearts in despair are aching,
That’s where the West begins;
Where there’s more of singing and less of sighing,
Where there’s more of giving and less of buying,
And a man makes friends without half trying —
That’s where the West begins.

Arthur Chapman © 1917-1918

http://www.theranchatrockcreek.com/ 

Reported:  Diane Koones

Mangala Heritage Home

Drive south on the Coromandel Coast, passing the exquisite shore temples of Mahabalipuram, on down past Auroville, Aurobindo’s ashram, and pause at Pondicherry, a charming city of Indian French fusion.  Turn west here and begin driving through the heartland of Tamil Nadu, a land of temples and villages, ancient, vibrant and enduring.

Arrive at Mangala Heritage Home, a 5-room stylish oasis, that welcomes with great hospitality and guides guests with intelligence and sensibility.

http://www.mangalaheritagehome.in/

Hei Fung Terrace

One of the most evocatively beautiful restaurants I have seen in a long time is Hei Fung Terrace, the Peninsula Tokyo’s Cantonese restaurant.  Sister to the Peninsula Hong Kong’s Spring Moon venue, it dazzles diners with its Michelin starred food.  It is the design, however, which had me in awe.  The interior is based on a Suzhou Garden located in China’s Jiangsu Province and featured on a list of World Heritage sites.  The romantic, intimate spaces includes a chef’s table and private dining room, discreetly placed tables and charming tables for two secreted behind Chinese screened windows.  These contrast dramatically with the regal views over the Imperial Gardens across the road.

http://www.peninsula.com/Tokyo/en/Dining/Hei_Fung_Terrace/default.aspx

Ryokan Beniya Mukayu

One of the loveliest of the ryokans I saw in Japan last week was Beniya Mukayu in the spa town of Yamashiro, Ishikawa Prefecture.  A Relais & Chateau property that has been in the Nakamichi family for four generations, Mukayu carries on a tradition of wellness through waters and balancing therapies that stretches back a thousand years.  Onsen are thermal waters, and Yamashiro onsen are simple, alkaline hot spring waters that are soothing and curative.  Along with communal and private baths, an extensive menu of spa therapies, and personally prepared herbal recipes, are yoga, meditation and delicious, spectacularly presented food gathered from the sea and the mountains.  With only 17 rooms, eight of which are Japanese, Mukayu is also treasure trove of art objects both contemporary and traditional.

The famous Chinese philosopher, Zhuangzi, who lived 2,300 years ago, said “An empty room will be filled with light because of its emptiness,”  words meaning that a mind entirely free of everything exists in a place of nothing, a place belonging to nowhere.  The word, Mukayu, also means non-existence, non-purpose, the natural state as it is.

Richness in emptiness….

These are the concepts that guided Beniya Mukayu’s design.  The resulting ryokan is a blissful creation.

http://www.mukayu.com/english/top.html

Tea Ceremony

One of the sweetest experiences of this week was an intimate tea ceremony with Tea Master Kazunari Nakamichi, proprietor of Beniya Mukayu, in his tiny garden tea house. The movements are fluid and precise, and the sense of communion with the master moving. These ceremonies with tea or incense are windows on to a culture that is fascinating and complex.

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Kanazawa: Art & Onsen

2.5 hours from Kyoto is the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa. A small city known for its deep history of culture and the sophistication of its taste, this is the place to come to see some of the splendid craft work of Japan, most notably lacquer, painted silk kimonos, bamboo plaiting and gold leafing. So out of the foreign tourist loop is it that, with advance planning and the right contacts, you can not only have a journey through a remarkable world of artisanal beauty but you can also meet the performers themselves.
We focused on the art of the painted kimono and watched the whole complex process underway in the atelier of Hitoshi Maida. We then visited the Ohi Museum with its generations of ceramic tea bowls and then, with the 10th generation Toshiro Ohi ceramist, we attended a tea ceremony in his house.
The day ended at an extraordinarily beautiful ryokan Onsen one hour west in Yamashiro, Beniya Mukayu. A Relais & Chateau property that has been in the family of Sachiko and Kazumi Nakamichi for three generations, Mukayu is a temple to wellness, balance and inner peace. Each room has its own outdoor hot spring bath in addition to the communal bath for the 17 rooms. A lovely spa (open until midnight), yoga, natural garden, Zen meditation room and menus composed of the freshest vegetables drawn from the mountains of Ishikawa and fish from the sea, half an hour away. My day ended with a late night massage but that was preceded by a two hour kaiseke dinner featuring snow crab in many forms. Incredible!

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Of Temples & Retreats

Early March in Kyoto can be cold and rainy as it is today. If a place can look as beautiful and feel as bewitching under these circumstances as Kyoto did today, then you only have to long to see it under fall foliage, winter snow, and spring cherry blossoms. I have made a promise to myself to return.
A ryokan 15 minutes upriver of such comfort, style and peace…Taizo-in Temple where I had a Zen Meditation session with Monk Dayko Matsuyama followed by an extraordinary kaiseke zen vegetarian lunch…and then Golden Temple in the rain, looking fragile and beautiful, an iridescent bird of paradise holding ever so still in a storm.

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